Here at the RRCA we get questions from many artists and record collectors. These questions take many different forms but there are a regular group of questions that keep presenting themselves so in the effort to keep sanity a list of these questions and answers have been compiled here.
What is the value of my record and/or my collection?
How do I price my collection?
The on-line record collectors forums?
How do I tell if my recording is the original?
Who can sell here?
What are the different types of recordings?
What are records made of?
How are records made?
Can the RRCA sell my records?
How should I store my music?
How should I clean my recordings?
I'm a musician and want to sell my recordings?
What's involved in opening a record company?
How do I convert my old formats to new?
How Do I Break The Anti-Copy Technology?
How do I get reviewed and in the archives?
How do I find out more about the RRCA?
I'm a rock musician and want to check out a good record company?
I still have a question that wasn't answered here?
What is the value of my record and/or my collection?
Without knowing the specifics of your collection or the group of items you wish to sell it can't be determined. Prices on collections for sale vary from place to place and country to country. The best place to ask is at local fairs and shops as well as ask collectors from your area you might find on the internet through our own discussion forum or via the usenet public discussion forums; there are many dedicated to record collecting and selling. There are also books which you can special order at most book stores which list recordings and discuss their importance, description and value. These books are usually genre specific. One such book which has been recommended to us, and is excellent for general appraisal is "The Official Price Guide" by Gerry Osborne, but other's exist.
The RRCA has teamed up with appraisers and appraisal firms to assist you, you can find out more about them at our special page on this subject.
How do I price my collection?
The "rule of thumb" with collection pricing is usually based on the following criteria:
- Condition - Items which are damaged or missing parts are valued less and the more damage present the less valuable they are.
- Availability - How common is the record now. If it is rare or hard to find it is usually valued more.
- Significance - How important of a recording was it to the industry. Items commonly known as being innovative or one-of-a-kind are more valuable.
- Popularity - How popular was it in its day.
- Market - Who are you selling to. Selling to bonified collectors usually brings a better price as they appreciate the recording for what it is. The local pawn shop usually gives the least amount.
- Technology - Is the item still useable today and is the technology respected. An old 8-Track tape will get you almost nothing, for example.
- Original - Is this the bonified recording or a cheap knock-off. The original is what a collector wants.
On-line record collectors forums?
The usenet record collectors forums:
rec.music.collecting
rec.music.collecting.misc
rec.music.collecting.vinyl
rec.collecting
alt.music
How do I tell if my recording is the original?
Over the years, especially as of late, many illegal bootleg and pirate recordings of popular titles have surfaced. Unless you are selling to an individual who actually wants the fakes your record is worthless. It is sometimes very hard to tell the real from a fake but all fakes, no matter how realistic, will have some subtle alteration done to them so that the perpetrators don't mistake their fake for the original themselves. Some examples: Wrong copyright dates, misspelled titles or artist names, wrong record company as publisher, slightly different colour on the cover or label, cheaper recording quality, incorrect catalogue numbers, etc. To find these you must intimately know the original first.
There are bonified re-pressings of records, however. These can be distinguished by multiple publisher or copyright dates but everything else is correct. Only in extreme cases are these valued less as they are original recordings just not original pressings. Some of these reprints are done by different record companies far removed from the original. These are also acceptable as master disc licensing is a common practice in the music industry. Quite often an artist changes labels and their back catalogue is re-issued or an exclusive license was granted to one company in Europe but a different one in North America, for example. The value of such records is in the eyes of you and your potential buyer.
What are the different types of recordings?
There have been many types of recording formats created during the past 125 years. Today we think of the CD as the state-of-the-art but it is not the only format collected. Next to the CD the other major format is the vinyl disc ("record"). These, mostly, come in two formats: the 45 ("donut") and the 33 ("LP"). The number designation refers to the rotation speed during playback. Other formats are Cassette tape, popular especially during the 1970's and the 1980's as well as the 8-track, which was almost exclusively used in North America during the 1960's and 1970's and is now extinct. The other format that was very common, especially before 1950's was the 78. The 78 is not playable on most modern hi-fi equipment and you require a gramophone (or electric version).
What are records made of?
The vinyl 45s and LPs are made of Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC); a type of plastic. The vinyl record contained a higher mixture of carbon, colouring and preservatives which gave it it's texture and stiffness.
Older 78's are made of slate and laquor.
Cassettes are made of a long plastic ribbon with either tiny chromium or copper particles stuck to it that allows for magnetic recording.
A CD is constructed of PVC (like its Vinyl brother) but the formulation is different. A metal film inner layer is stamped and two clear PVC layers (one on each side) sandwiches the metal between them.
This is a simplified explanation, however.
How are records made?
Both records and CD's are remarkably similar in the methods of manufacture which is one of the reasons why CD's were adopted so quickly by the music industry.
In the case of records, a master plate is created using a cutting lathe stylus which cuts the grooves and bumps that store the music based on the playback of the studio recording. For CD's the "stylus" is a laser beam cutting pits (not grooves) in glass which create light and dark sections representing the 0's and 1's of computer binary code. These "master plates" are a negative image of the final recording. The original studio recording or "master tape" is usually NOT recorded live but instead, each instrument is recorded separately and the items are then merged to a final tape which is what gets used to create the "master plate".
Once this negative image "master plate" is created millions of copies can be made using high speed duplicating equipment which mold the final recording. In the case of records the medium being stamped is hot vinyl in which the grooves are stamped in; with CD's an aluminum plate is stamped with the tiny pits and two layers of PVC plastic (one on top and one on the bottom) are placed. The final product, in both cases, is then automatically cut into the familiar circle shapes.
Tape, on the other hand, usually comes into the factory pre-assembled in its cassette cartridge form and a high speed dubbing machine simply encodes the magnetic strip with the sound from the master.
This is a simplified version of events.
Can the RRCA sell my records?
No. We simply help you with information like what you are reading here.
To sell your NEW music please visit our Diskery subsidiary.
How should I store my music?
Records should be stored in their protective cardboard sleeves and inner liners in a dry place. Do not stack the records on top of each other as this may cause warping; they should be stored back-to-back vertically (upright). Keep them away from heat.
CD's should be stored in their jewel boxes, vertically if possible and away from heat. If they get cold and fog up with condensation place them at room temperature and wait for the fog to disappear before playing.
Cassettes should also be stored in their cases and not near magnetic sources (including on top of the stereo, TV, computer or other appliances) or heat.
Avoid touching the play surface of your recordings.
How should I clean my recordings?
To clean dust off of a CD all you need is a soft dry cloth. Wipe the disc slowly in even strokes from the hub to outer edge. Do not rub around the disc following its path or circumference.
Records can be cleaned with a dry cloth following the grooves. A new, clean artist detail paint brush is also an excellent tool for this job. The paint brush is ideal for also cleaning the end of the stylus (needle), do not use rough or wet cloths.
In both cases if you have deep stains or mold you can purchase stronger cleaners - make sure they specifically say they are safe for records and/or CD's!
I'm a musician and want to sell my records?
Please see our Diskery affiliate.
What's involved in opening a record company?
Many artists open their own company to sell their own music. This, is usually, a bad idea as it cuts you out of the market for other record companies who just want a new artist and not the business baggage. On the other hand it does give you valuable tax benefits and more control over your productions. Artists are better off opening a "Production Company" as it is cheaper, does not have the stigma with bigger operators and still gives you the benefits.
Stuff your sock with lots of dough if you want a full record company because you will need a good entertainment lawyer, maybe even a business lawyer, an accountant, record producer, graphic artist, marketer not to mention musicians to record which involves studio time, gig booking and access to a good pressing plant and the money to pay for the thousands of units you will have to send to the stores and radio stations who traditionally aren't interested in independently recorded music. Not to mention the hundreds of other guys who have record companies who want YOU out of the business. Granted much of this, depending on your experience and education, you can do yourself to save cost but it will NOT save you time - remember the old saying in this business "don't quit your day job"?
It is an uphill battle but if you tough it out you might get your creative say on the industry.
If you are not serious about running a record company then please don't. It's not "a good idea at the time" sort of endeavour. The music industry is hard enough so non-serious applicants need not apply.
How do I convert my old music formats to new?
Converting between formats:
Start with a working playback machine for your old format.
In most cases (in the case of a Cassette) this is a simple matter of reading the instructions on your stereo. Basically insert the cassette, press record and off you go.
To copy/burn a CD it requires a special machine called a CD-Burner (aka CD-R or CD Recordable). There are now models which connect directly to your stereo but most commonly this is done by computer since many computers come with them installed. These devices require a special CD that can be recorded onto. Note computer sound cards may not necessarily accept input from another device or may require a special cable. Read your device's instructions on how to connect cables. In general, for CD-ROMS, CD's can easily be converted by either saving them to the computer hard drive or playing them in a second CD-ROM and recording on the other (like an old tape dubbing system). If you do not have a second CD or the space/time to do the copy then use the same system as you would to copy Records and tapes onto digital as specified in the next section.
To copy a 45 or 33 record you need a turntable with the pickup configured correctly for the type of stereo you are using (Ceramic or Magnetic), read your stereo instructions for propper settings, most new systems require Ceramic input. New stereos don't want to admit they can run a turntable and will often require you to input them into the auxiliary ports as a "100 CD" or just plain "AUX". When you play your record simply press RECORD on your CD-R or tape. If you have a turntable that does not have output then try using it's speaker jacks as output. Note: Many old turntables are now out of service and are in disrepair, check to make sure they actually work - especially the stylus (needle) quite often they are worn or broken. Shops like Radio Shack stock hundreds of stylis and record player parts; if you need a source for parts I'd start there.
To copy an old 78 is another matter. If you are lucky enough to get your mits on an "electric gramophone" (a record player that plays 78RPM discs) AND have one that allows the sound to be output then use it just like the 45 and 33 RPM copy method. If not then you may have to resort to other means you will have to devise. One that works, if you are careful and VERY QUIET about it is simply taking a modern stereo with a microphone and placing the mic by the funnel of an old Victorolla (or similar) playing the gramophone while pressing record on your Tape. It sounds medieval but if you got a better system then go for it.
When doing sound conversion you can also rent or buy expert or more expensive equipment to do everything from basic sound movement to actual cleaning of the sound (remove pops, hisses and other noises).
Note one thing though: The older your recorded format the more difficulty it is to convert so if you plan on doing a project like this plan to do it sooner rather then later.
Converting to digital:
More often than not today you will want to convert from a cassette, 8-track or record onto CD. Up until recently this was thought impossible without purchasing an expensive CD-Burner designed specifically for audio copying on a home stereo.
This, as it turns out, is not exactly true. With a quick trip to an electronics parts shop (i.e. Radio Shack) and $2.50 in your pocket you can get your old analogue formats preserved forever in digital.
Although there are special kits you can buy the easiest and cheapest method for making a CD from your old formats is as follows:
- If you are converting from a record player (or any old format) which has a LEFT and RIGHT RCA speaker output (two holes in the back each acting as a port for a short stubby pronged wire intended to output to a speaker) then all you need is a "Y Cable" with Left/Right RCA plugs on one end and a stereo prong sized to fit into your "LINE-IN" or "MIC" port on your computer sound card.
- If you are converting from a device which does not have RCA output but has a standard Headset plug then you need to purchase a two headed male cable with a standard headset jack plug on one end and a smaller plug sized to fit into your computer sound card's "LINE-IN" or "MIC" port.
You can also connect these cables to another CD player to copy a CD. This method has been known to break the new protective Anti-copy technology now being used on CDs which would normally prevent a direct copy onto a CD-ROM.
Copy protection systems for CDs is amateurish at best, considering one of the newest and most popular of these can be cracked by simply pressing the SHIFT key when inserting the CD into your computer. Some CD's (such as Iron Maiden's Dance Of Death album) present a pop-up screen that tells you you need to load their special software to use the CD. This is nothing more than a bald-faced lie designed to trick you into BELIEVING the disc cannot be copied. To beat the system, say "NO" to the install request then load your CD player/recorder software manually from your MAC or Windows menues then press PLAY. To access the data portion of the CD just tell your Windows system to "explore" the CD (right mouse click while in "MY COMPUTER").
How Do I Break The Anti-Copy Technology?
Under the 1982 Beta-Cord act you have the right to make a copy of copyrighted material you have purchased. This right is limited, however, and provided to you to allow for lawful archival or study.
To find out how see the previous section How do I convert my old music formats to new?, specifically the secion on Converting To Digital.
How do I get reviewed and in the archives?
Prepare a package containing a copy of the releases you want reviewed and archived, a band biography, photographs and anything else you want checked out. Be sure to write a brief (it doesn't have to be formal) introduction letter saying you want review (this helps speed it's processing up) then send it to:
c/o Emperor Multimedia Corporation Ltd.
126 Martindale Ave.
Oakville, Ontario
Canada
L6H 4G7
Listings are free.
How do I find out more about the RRCA?
Visit: About The RRCA.
I'm a rock musician and want to check out a good record company?
Our links section has a listing of several labels. You can also try our own Emperor Multimedia.
I still have a question that wasn't answered here?
Contact: The Webmaster by E-Mail.